1996 Inez & Vinoodh

The Verdict

Byredo 1996 Inez & Vinoodh is a fragrance inspired by a photograph, and it wears like one: layered, contemplative, and open to interpretation. Released in 2013, this oriental woody composition draws from a 1996 photograph titled Kirsten by the celebrated photography duo Inez and Vinoodh, and founder Ben Gorham's interpretation of its duality is evident in every phase of the scent. It won the FiFi Award for Best New Independent Fragrance in 2014, and the community remains sharply divided on its merits.

Some reviewers consider 1996 to be Byredo's strongest offering, praising its quietly sexy iris-leather combination and excellent staying power. Others find the heavy patchouli and vanilla base overwhelmingly cloying and dismiss it outright. This is a fragrance that demands sampling before committing.

What It Smells Like

The opening is crisp and peppery, like a black pepper martini with a twist of citrus peel. Juniper berries provide a gin-like botanical brightness while black pepper adds sharp warmth. This initial burst is lively and inviting, giving little indication of the darker territory ahead.

The heart is where 1996 reveals its true character. Orris root (iris) takes center stage, rooty and earthy rather than powdery, meeting leather halfway to create what one reviewer describes as a slightly sepia-toned version of perfumery's most gothic flower. Violet adds a purple, slightly sweet haze that softens the leather's edge. This middle phase, where the iris and leather intertwine in an intimate dance, is widely considered the fragrance's finest moment.

The base is warm and enveloping. Patchouli provides dark, earthy depth, while dark amber and vanilla add sweet, resinous warmth. The patchouli is modern in style, avoiding mustiness, but it is undeniably prominent. For those who connect with it, the drydown is mesmerizing and intimate. For detractors, this is where the fragrance becomes cloying and overwrought.

When to Wear It

This is a cold-weather fragrance through and through. The heavy iris, leather, and patchouli combination needs cool air to breathe properly and can become stifling in warmth. It excels for intimate evenings, quiet dinners, gallery openings, and contemplative solo outings where its close sillage works as an advantage rather than a limitation.

One reviewer described it as the smell of Generation X, evoking 90s nostalgia, which gives it a particular emotional resonance for those who came of age in that decade.

Longevity & Projection

Longevity is excellent. Reviewers consistently report all-day staying power, with the fragrance evolving subtly over many hours. The projection, however, is close to the skin. This is an intimate scent designed to be discovered rather than announced, wearing more like a second skin than a perfume cloud. One reviewer noted that it is beautifully done and quietly sexy, which captures the intended effect perfectly.

The Community Says

Fragrantica reviewers are deeply divided. Enthusiasts describe 1996 as an amazing perfume that melts their heart every time, praising its dark, resinous, mysterious character as odd but very sexy. Critics are equally passionate, with one Basenotes reviewer describing it as thick patchouli glazed with cloying vanilla, boosted with ambroxan to annoying levels of power. Blog reviewers at Now Smell This call it beautifully done and quietly sexy, recommending it particularly for iris lovers seeking a cold-weather option.

The fragrance consistently earns praise for its artistic ambition and unique character, even from those who ultimately find it too intense for their personal taste.

Who Should Buy This

Byredo 1996 is essential sampling for iris enthusiasts, leather fragrance lovers, and anyone drawn to contemplative, artistic compositions with genuine depth. If you appreciate fragrances that evolve slowly and reward close attention, this has much to offer. Its unisex character makes it equally appealing regardless of gender.

Avoid it if patchouli or vanilla dominate your dislike list, if you need strong projection for social settings, or if you prefer straightforward, immediately readable fragrances. This is a scent that asks you to meet it halfway.

The Bottom Line

Byredo 1996 Inez & Vinoodh is a genuinely artistic fragrance that captures the duality of its photographic inspiration. The iris-leather heart is masterful, the longevity is excellent, and the overall composition rewards repeated wearing. It is also one of the more polarizing releases in Byredo's catalog, making a sample an absolute necessity before investing in a full bottle.