Escentric 05

The Verdict

Escentric 05 represents perfumer Geza Schoen's most evocative creation in the Escentric Molecules series -- a fragrance that genuinely transports the wearer to a sun-baked Mediterranean island where pine-covered hillsides meet the sea. Built around cashmeran (the star molecule of the companion Molecule 05), this 2020 release transforms a single synthetic ingredient into a fully realized olfactory landscape, earning quiet but devoted praise from those who discover it.

The fragrance community considers it hugely underrated, with multiple reviewers arguing it deserves the kind of attention that popular Byredo and Le Labo releases receive. At its best, Escentric 05 captures the specific sensory experience of late summer in the Mediterranean -- the herbs drying in the hills, the resinous warmth of pine, the salt air -- with remarkable specificity.

What It Smells Like

The opening is immediately aromatic and herbal. Bergamot and orange provide bright citrus energy, while bay leaf, rosemary, and juniper create an almost gin-and-tonic freshness that several reviewers note and appreciate. Fig adds a soft, milky greenness that rounds out the herbal sharpness. The overall first impression is of walking through a Mediterranean herb garden on a warm morning.

The heart introduces a floral dimension that softens the herbal opening. Cypress adds a cool, green austerity, while hedione provides an airy jasmine-like radiance. Iris, jasmine, and freesia create a delicate floral haze that never becomes overtly pretty or feminine. The cashmeran begins to assert itself here, bringing its characteristic dry, warm woodiness.

The base is where the Mediterranean landscape fully materializes. Cashmeran anchors everything with papery, musky warmth, supported by Iso E Super's velvety woody cocoon and ambroxan's warm radiance. Mastic resin and labdanum provide the resinous, sun-baked quality -- the smell of hot earth and dried herbs. Schoen himself described the inspiration as "the dry and resinous woods towards the end of the summer," and the base note composition captures exactly that.

When to Wear It

Escentric 05 is first and foremost a warm-weather fragrance, inspired by and designed for the kind of days where the air smells of herbs and sun-warmed stone. Spring and summer are its natural territory, though the cashmeran warmth gives it enough depth to extend into early fall. It works beautifully for outdoor dining, coastal getaways, weekend leisure, and cultural events where understated sophistication is appreciated.

Despite the summery profile, some reviewers note it is quite sweet and may be better suited for spring than the hottest peak-summer days. It layers well with Molecule 05 for added cashmeran depth.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is Escentric 05's most variable quality. Reports range dramatically based on individual skin chemistry. Enthusiastic reviewers describe excellent projection and all-day longevity, sometimes lasting day-long or night-long. More measured assessments place longevity at around 4 to 6 hours with moderate projection that comes and goes throughout the day in waves -- a characteristic typical of Iso E Super-based fragrances.

The 15% concentration of cashmeran in the formula provides a sustained warmth that helps the fragrance maintain presence even as the top notes fade. For an EDT in the fresh-woody category, the performance is above average, though those expecting beast-mode from the Escentric series may be underwhelmed.

The Community Says

Community reception has been enthusiastic among those who have discovered Escentric 05, though it remains less discussed than earlier entries in the series. Fragrantica reviewers describe it as "hugely underrated" and argue it deserves the hype that more marketed niche fragrances receive. CaFleureBon praised the series, with particular appreciation for the Mediterranean inspiration. Basenotes reviews note its distinctiveness, describing it as a "green woody incense type of scent" with genuine character. Some critics find it too bitter and earthy, and the cashmeran can read differently across skin types, making sampling essential. The overall Parfumo consensus is positive, placing it among the better Escentric releases.

Who Should Buy This

Escentric 05 is made for the fragrance enthusiast who has grown tired of generic summer freshies and seeks something with genuine artistic vision and sense of place. If you appreciate herbal-aromatic compositions, enjoy conceptual perfumery, or simply want a warm-weather scent that smells like nowhere and everywhere at once, this delivers. Fans of Mediterranean-inspired fragrances and those who enjoy Escentric Molecules' molecule-forward approach will find it particularly satisfying.

Fragrance newcomers may find the concept abstract and the scent profile challenging. Those seeking a straightforward, sweet summer fragrance should look elsewhere.

The Bottom Line

Escentric 05 is one of the most evocative summer fragrances available -- a cashmeran-anchored composition that captures the sensory richness of a Mediterranean island without resorting to the usual marine or coconut cliches. Geza Schoen's vision of dried herbs, warm resin, and salt air translates beautifully to skin, creating a fragrance that is at once deeply personal and universally appealing. It deserves far more attention than it currently receives.