Colette 25

The Verdict

Colette 25 emerged as the standout fragrance from Le Labo's 2017 trilogy created for the iconic Parisian boutique Colette. Composed by Frank Voelkl and described by Le Labo as "fresh and fluid," it drew particular enthusiasm from readers and community members among the three releases. The concept of freshness sourced from below the earth's surface gives Colette 25 a distinctive character that sets it apart from conventional fresh fragrances.

Community reviews on Fragrantica describe a scent that opens with something fresh and floral, reminiscent of crocuses in a florist's cooler, before developing into a clean, musky composition with unexpected complexity. The fragrance has earned positive marks for its wearability and sophistication, with reviewers appreciating its ability to be pleasant without being generic.

As the most discussed of the Colette trio, Colette 25 represents what can happen when a skilled perfumer like Voelkl creates something for a discerning, design-conscious audience without commercial compromise.

What It Smells Like

Colette 25 opens with bergamot providing citrus brightness that quickly reveals the fragrance's more complex character. Iris and musk form the composition's backbone, creating a powdery-clean impression that community members describe as fresh and cool. According to Le Labo's own notes, angelica root and orris draw freshness from below the earth's surface, contributing an earthy, rooty quality that grounds the airy musk.

Reviewers on Fragrantica note a slight sweetish fruit quality, likened to berries or raspberry, that weaves through the musky foundation. Some detect a very small edgy, rubbery quality that adds a contemporary edge to the otherwise clean composition. Cedar provides woody structure in the background, while moss and soft woods create gentle depth.

The overall effect is of a fragrance that smells clean and fresh in a way that feels natural rather than synthetic, with enough earthy complexity to reward repeated wearing. The musky-powdery-amber accords dominate, creating a composition that is simultaneously comforting and intriguing.

When to Wear It

Colette 25 is best suited to spring and summer, where its fresh, cool character can shine. Reviewers specifically note it performs well in warmer weather, making it a natural choice for outdoor activities, casual social gatherings, and professional settings. Its balanced character means it can transition from day to evening without feeling out of place.

The unisex composition works on anyone who appreciates clean, musky fragrances, and its moderate sillage makes it office-friendly while still projecting enough to be noticed in closer social settings.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is respectable, with Fragrantica ratings showing longevity at 3.67 out of 5 and sillage at 2.90 out of 4. These scores suggest a fragrance that lasts through a workday without needing reapplication but does not project aggressively. The musky base helps extend the fragrance's life on skin, and the iris-cedar combination provides enough structure for the scent to maintain its character as it develops.

The Community Says

Among the three Colette fragrances, Colette 25 generated the most enthusiasm from the fragrance community. Now Smell This noted that readers expressed particular interest in this composition during the launch coverage. Fragrantica reviewers describe it as fresh, pleasant, and genuinely unisex, with one reviewer comparing the opening to crocuses in a florist's cooler. The fragrance's ability to be accessible without being boring is consistently praised.

Some community members note the slight rubbery edge as a minor point of contention, though most find it adds character rather than detracting from the experience. The closure of Colette in December 2017 has only increased the fragrance's mystique and desirability among collectors.

Who Should Buy This

Colette 25 is for the Le Labo aficionado and fragrance collector who values unique, well-crafted compositions with an interesting story. It suits those who appreciate clean musky fragrances with earthy depth, particularly those who find mainstream clean fragrances too generic. The Colette provenance appeals to those at the intersection of fashion, design, and fragrance culture.

Given its unavailability through normal retail channels, anyone seriously interested would need to explore the secondary market. Those seeking a readily available musky-iris fragrance can explore Le Labo's mainline offerings or other niche houses for similar territory.

The Bottom Line

Le Labo Colette 25 is a fresh, earthy musky-iris composition that was the critical favorite of the Colette trilogy, offering sophisticated wearability and subtle complexity that justified its exclusive positioning at one of Paris's most discerning boutiques.