Untitled L'Eau

The Verdict

Untitled L'Eau represents Maison Martin Margiela's conceptual approach to fragrance at its most accessible and rewarding. Created by Daniela Andrier as a lighter counterpart to the original Untitled eau de parfum, this 2011 release has earned a quiet but devoted following among those who appreciate green, citrus-forward compositions with substance.

The community consensus tilts firmly positive, with reviewers consistently praising its energy, freshness, and surprising depth. What sets it apart from the legion of citrus colognes is the herbal backbone of galbanum, buchu, and spearmint, which gives the composition an almost medicinal crispness that keeps it interesting well beyond the opening.

What It Smells Like

The opening is a blast of bright lemon, mandarin, and citruses that one reviewer on Olfactoria's Travels described as arriving in a "burst of bright green and citrus." The zesty, juicy character feels young and rejuvenating, with the Amalfi lemon lending particular elegance.

The heart introduces green notes, mint, and orange blossom alongside galbanum and buchu, an African herb that adds an unusual bitter-green facet. The spearmint brings a refreshing coolness without veering into toothpaste territory. As Olfactoria's Travels noted, the composition resembles "a younger and less elegant Chanel N19 with more citrus." The base dries down with a subtle smokiness from incense and a quiet earthiness from patchouli, adding unexpected depth to what initially seems like a straightforward fresh scent.

When to Wear It

This is a warm-weather fragrance through and through. Its energizing, mood-lifting character makes it ideal for spring and summer days when you want to feel refreshed and alert. The moderate sillage and clean profile make it perfectly office-appropriate, while its complexity prevents it from being boring during casual weekend wear.

The green-herbal character also works well for outdoor activities where heavier fragrances would feel oppressive.

Longevity & Projection

For an eau de toilette, Untitled L'Eau punches well above its weight in the longevity department. Multiple reviewers report at least six hours of wear time, which is impressive for the genre. Sillage, however, is deliberately moderate to low. This is a close-to-the-skin fragrance that rewards proximity rather than announcing itself from across the room.

The Community Says

Reviewers on fragrance blogs and forums describe it as "refreshing, happy and carefree" with one Fragrantica reviewer noting it is "a very nice fresh and clean scent that seems original." Olfactoria's Travels found it "not life-changing" but praised how it consistently improved their mood throughout the season. Parfumo reviewers appreciated how it was "zestier" and "more flattering, easier to wear than the big brother" while having "a hint of minimal sweetness." Several community members consider it a worthy companion to Mugler Cologne in the clean-fresh unisex genre.

Who Should Buy This

Untitled L'Eau is a natural choice for anyone who loves green fragrances with citrus brightness and herbal complexity. If you find most fresh scents too simple or boring, the galbanum-buchu-spearmint combination here adds genuine interest. It is also an excellent entry point into the Maison Margiela fragrance world for those unfamiliar with the brand's more conceptual offerings.

The Bottom Line

Untitled L'Eau is a smartly composed green-citrus fragrance that delivers more depth than its light, cheerful exterior suggests. Its discontinuation has made it harder to find, but for those who can track it down, it remains one of the better examples of a fresh unisex scent that refuses to be generic.