Metal

The Verdict

Rabanne Metal arrived in 1979 as the olfactory equivalent of Studio 54 glamour -- sparkling, seductive, and utterly of its moment. Perfumer Robert Gonnon created a green floral chypre that managed to capture the effervescence of champagne bubbles and the cool shimmer of chrome surfaces. It was Paco Rabanne's third women's fragrance and arguably his most artistically accomplished.

Despite its era-defining character, Metal has aged remarkably well. Multiple fragrance writers have noted that it feels "ageless" and "strangely not dated," a rare achievement for a composition so deeply associated with a specific cultural moment. Its discontinuation has elevated it to cult status among vintage perfume enthusiasts, who describe it as one of the finest green chypres ever created.

What It Smells Like

The opening is a rush of sparkling aldehydes and crisp green notes, joined by bright lemon and cool hyacinth. This creates what reviewers describe as a "foaming, aldehydic sparkle of fresh greens" with a subtle metallic sheen reminiscent of Rabanne's earlier Calandre, though warmer and more floral.

The heart unfolds into a lush but angular floral bouquet. Iris and lily-of-the-valley provide the silvery, dewy backbone, while jasmine, ylang-ylang, and tuberose add richness without sweetness. Rose and cyclamen round out the accord with a delicate, airy quality. The overall impression is of a synthesized floral that suggests many possible natural components without letting any single note dominate.

The base delivers the classic chypre foundation: oakmoss provides dry, earthy depth, vetiver adds a green rootiness, and sandalwood, amber, and musk create lasting warmth. The drydown has been described as sublime -- bursting with a deepening freshness that maintains the opening sparkle throughout its evolution.

When to Wear It

Metal is quintessentially a spring fragrance. Its green, fresh character comes alive in mild temperatures where the aldehydic sparkle can project freely without being overwhelmed by heat. It also transitions beautifully into early fall evenings.

This is an event fragrance -- best suited for cocktail parties, elegant dinners, and cultural outings where its sophisticated character can be appreciated. The disco-era associations make it particularly fitting for evening occasions that call for confident glamour.

Longevity & Projection

Vintage Metal delivers impressive staying power, with the aldehydes acting as a protective bubble that preserves the floral and fruity facets for hours. Reviewers describe an "ever-recurring sparkle" and "foaming, delirious lustre" that persists rather than fading to a mere skin scent. The dry oakmoss base anchors everything with authority. The Eau de Metal concentration performs similarly to the parfum, with reviewers noting minimal differences between the two.

The Community Says

The fragrance community treats Metal with reverence. The Black Narcissus blog devoted an extensive piece to it, calling it a "shimmering, (dirty) angel of the disco set" and praising its "clean and energized, elegant, green and sweet" character. Basenotes reviewers describe it as "a true, old skool chypre floral" and "an ultimate chypre-dry-aldehyde-floral which stands on its own feet." Fragrantica members consistently praise its beauty and uniqueness, with one reviewer noting it smells like "an extremely dry, green floral chypre -- fresh, bitter, easy to wear, anything but metallic." The consensus is that Metal represents a lost genre of perfumery that modern regulations and tastes have rendered nearly impossible to replicate.

Who Should Buy This

Metal is essential for vintage chypre devotees and anyone who appreciates the structural beauty of dry green florals. If you love fragrances like Chanel No. 19, Givenchy III, or Estee Lauder Aliage, and you value angular sophistication over crowd-pleasing sweetness, hunting down a bottle of Metal will be deeply rewarding.

This is emphatically not for anyone who gravitates toward warm, gourmand, or syrupy compositions. Its dry, green character may feel alien to those raised on modern fruity florals.

The Bottom Line

Rabanne Metal is a masterpiece of late-1970s perfumery that transcends its era to stand as one of the finest green floral chypres ever composed. Its sparkling aldehyde opening, angular floral heart, and dry oakmoss base create a fragrance of rare distinction. Discontinued and increasingly scarce, Metal rewards those willing to search for it with an experience that modern perfumery simply cannot replicate.