Pure Turquoise

The Verdict

Ralph Lauren Pure Turquoise arrived in 2005 as something genuinely unusual in the designer fragrance landscape. Perfumer Annie Buzantian composed a chypre floral that drew inspiration from the American Southwest, incorporating cactus flower and desert lily alongside traditional floral and woody elements. Named after the turquoise stone adorning its stopper, this was Ralph Lauren reaching for the rugged glamour of Santa Fe rather than the polished sheen of Manhattan.

The fragrance developed a passionate following among women who described it as a masterpiece. Its discontinuation prompted widespread mourning in the fragrance community, with devotees calling on Ralph Lauren to bring it back and scrambling for remaining bottles wherever they could find them.

What It Smells Like

The opening is bold and assertive. Cactus flower provides an unusual, crisp bite that is immediately distinctive, while lily-of-the-valley sprinkles springtime freshness throughout. Violet contributes powdery softness, and currant leaf adds a tart green edge. Some reviewers note that the initial blast can be harsh and loud, but patience is rewarded.

As Pure Turquoise settles, the heart reveals its true beauty. Orange blossom provides honeyed warmth, Bulgarian rose adds classical elegance, and desert lily -- the most unusual element -- creates an arid, sun-baked quality unlike anything in mainstream perfumery. The overall impression is of a delicate bouquet transported to a desert landscape.

The base is where Pure Turquoise truly distinguishes itself. Birch contributes a smoky, leathery quality that grounds the florals in something earthy and real. Patchouli adds darkness, amber provides warmth, bourbon vanilla lends creamy sweetness, and rum introduces a boozy richness that ties everything together. The drydown is smooth, silky, and genuinely beautiful.

When to Wear It

Pure Turquoise is a warm-weather fragrance that performs best in spring and summer. Its fresh, green opening and airy floral heart come alive in heat, while the smoky base prevents it from becoming another generic summer floral. Reviewers recommend it for daytime adventures, outdoor gatherings, and special occasions where its unique character can make an impression.

The fragrance teeters between bizarre and beautiful, making it best suited for confident wearers who embrace unconventional scent choices.

Longevity & Projection

Performance reports are surprisingly divided. Some reviewers claim exceptional longevity of over 24 hours on skin, while others report the fragrance fading within a couple of hours. The consensus suggests that skin chemistry plays an unusually large role with this composition. Sillage is similarly variable -- some find it overpowering with incredible projection, while others describe it as soft and close. Applying to well-moisturized pulse points appears to improve both longevity and consistency.

The Community Says

The community response to Pure Turquoise skews enthusiastically positive. Fragrantica reviewers call it "simply pure love heaven" and "a MASTERPIECE," praising its androgynous green woody leathery character as "absolutely gorgeous." Basenotes members appreciate the unique cactus note that adds an airy, crisp quality, and the lily as the dominant floral kept interesting by the additions of birch, rum, and cassia. One reviewer described it as offering a great earthy smell for those who want perfumes to smell more like earth rather than flowers. The discontinuation remains a sore point, with multiple reviewers expressing frustration that Ralph Lauren abandoned such a distinctive creation.

Who Should Buy This

Pure Turquoise is ideal for women who want a fragrance that transports them somewhere specific -- in this case, the sun-baked landscapes of the American Southwest. If you appreciate earthy, smoky, leathery qualities in your florals and you value uniqueness over conformity, tracking down a bottle is worth the hunt.

This is not for anyone seeking a safe, predictable floral or a crowd-pleasing compliment-getter. Its smoky birch and desert notes will puzzle those expecting a conventional Ralph Lauren offering.

The Bottom Line

Ralph Lauren Pure Turquoise is one of those discontinued designer fragrances that deserved a far longer life. Annie Buzantian's composition achieves something rare -- a genuinely evocative sense of place, combining desert-inspired florals with smoky birch and warm rum-vanilla into a fragrance that is both beautiful and boldly unconventional. For those who discover it, Pure Turquoise becomes a beloved signature that nothing else can replace.