Baptême du Feu

The Verdict

Bapteme du Feu -- baptism of fire -- is a name that sets expectations, and Christopher Sheldrake's 2016 creation for Serge Lutens largely delivers on that promise of transformative intensity. This oriental composition joins Muscs Koublai Khan and Serge Noire in a trilogy of deliberately polarizing fragrances that have divided the Lutens faithful.

The community response is passionate on both sides. Admirers call it magic in a bottle, praising its addictive nature and the way it evolves from aggressive smoke and citrus into warm, comforting sweetness. Critics find it bizarre, off-putting, and ultimately dissolving into generic sweetness after a promising start. This is not a fragrance that inspires indifference.

What It Smells Like

The opening delivers a tart, immensely bitter green tangerine that has been described as a curl of orange peel smoking on a Bunsen burner, overlaid with a dry grey haze of gunpowder. The citrus is unripe, acidic, and paired with metallic ambroxan that creates a genuinely startling first impression. Castoreum adds an animalic edge that reinforces the sense of burning and transformation.

As the fire subsides, osmanthus emerges and harmonizes with the castoreum like milk and coffee, according to Basenotes admirers. The gingerbread accord surfaces, creating a fluffy, powdery, cozy quality that the Perfume Posse reviewer likened to a perfect spring afternoon when warmth fades to chill. Woody notes anchor the base, though some detect a chemical exoskeleton emerging as the initial atmospheric magic fades.

When to Wear It

Bapteme du Feu is a cool-weather fragrance that struggles in heat and humidity, where it flattens and loses its presence. It shines on crisp autumn afternoons and cool spring days when its evolution from smoke to warmth mirrors the shifting temperatures. The Perfume Posse reviewer noted it would be very nice, and ever so slightly subversive, on someone in business attire, though most community members position it as an artistic fragrance for personal enjoyment rather than social occasions.

Avoid wearing this in close office environments where the aggressive opening could overwhelm colleagues.

Longevity & Projection

Longevity is a genuine strength. Kafkaesque's detailed testing recorded over 16.5 hours of wear, with 10-11 hours representing more typical performance. However, projection is front-loaded -- beginning at about 3 inches and dropping to roughly 1 inch within an hour. It becomes a skin scent around 5-6 hours, meaning you will enjoy this fragrance primarily as a personal experience rather than a scent trail.

The disconnect between excellent longevity and modest projection is a common Serge Lutens trait, and Bapteme du Feu follows this pattern faithfully.

The Community Says

Kafkaesque respects Bapteme du Feu's originality and eccentricity while acknowledging personal dislike, calling it recommended primarily for dedicated Lutens enthusiasts. Fragrantica users describe it as addictively lavish with Serge Lutens DNA, while others find the atmosphere captured in the top notes does not hold together for long. Basenotes reviewers are split between those who find the burnt citrus and smoke overwhelming and those who consider the osmanthus-castoreum harmony the cat's meow.

Who Should Buy This

Bapteme du Feu is for the fragrance adventurer who has already explored Serge Lutens's more accessible offerings and wants to push deeper into the house's challenging territory. If you enjoy fragrances that evolve dramatically, appreciate artistic compositions that prioritize concept over crowd-pleasing, and have the patience to let an aggressive opening resolve into warmth, this delivers a unique experience.

Avoid if you need your fragrances to make a positive impression immediately, prefer consistent projection, or find smoky and animalic notes off-putting.

The Bottom Line

Bapteme du Feu lives up to its name -- it is indeed a trial by fire, burning through expectations and conventions to arrive at something genuinely its own. The smoky citrus-to-gingerbread journey is unlike anything else in perfumery, and its marathon longevity means you will have many hours to contemplate whether the fire has transformed or merely singed. Not for everyone, but unforgettable for those it reaches.