De Profundis Limited Edition

The Verdict

Serge Lutens' De Profundis, originally released in 2011 and revisited in this 2015 limited edition, stands as one of the most emotionally ambitious compositions in modern perfumery. Built around chrysanthemum, a flower laden with funereal associations across many cultures, it transforms what could be merely somber into something achingly beautiful. Community reception is overwhelmingly positive among those who encounter it, though its whisper-quiet presentation and contemplative nature limit its appeal to a self-selecting audience.

The limited edition format only intensifies its cult status. Those who have worn it tend to speak of it with a reverence unusual even in the devoted world of Serge Lutens enthusiasts.

What It Smells Like

De Profundis opens with delicate florals: chrysanthemum, violet, white lily, and peony alongside green notes and an evocative impression of wet earth. The effect is of a garden at dusk after rain, petals heavy with moisture, the air carrying both sweetness and the cool mineral scent of damp soil.

As the chrysanthemum develops, it gains support from an accord of liturgical incense, carnation, and woody violet. The composition is sometimes described as a somber, funereal beauty, though in practice it feels more elegiac than morbid. A gossamer veil of sweeter incense creates peace and acceptance rather than grief. The base introduces ash and woody notes that add a smoky, austere quality, grounding the ethereal florals with earthbound substance. The purple juice in the bottle is visually stunning and perfectly captures the fragrance's twilight character.

When to Wear It

De Profundis is an autumn and winter fragrance by temperament as much as by season. Its melancholy beauty harmonizes with turning leaves, early frosts, and the shortened days of late fall. It works beautifully for contemplative walks, museum visits, and quiet evenings where its intimate sillage creates a personal atmosphere.

One reviewer suggests it suits office wear, business meetings, park walks, and tea occasions rather than romantic evenings. Its introverted character is cool, haunting, and slightly melancholy, yet consistently elegant.

Longevity & Projection

Sillage is always low with De Profundis. Reviewers consistently describe it as staying unusually intimate, with moderate projection at best and becoming a true skin scent after the third hour. Despite this quietness, total longevity can be surprisingly impressive. One reviewer reported detecting it in full complexity twenty hours after a single application. Others note approximately six to seven hours on skin, with the composition remaining beautiful throughout its entire arc.

This is a fragrance that rewards close proximity and personal awareness rather than room-filling presence.

The Community Says

Kafkaesque described De Profundis as gossamer yet long lasting, praising its exquisitely beautiful composition that captures an entire meadow and forest rather than mere flowers. Basenotes reviewers report moderate sillage but very good projection in intimate settings, with one noting nine hours of respectable longevity. CaFleureBon called it an innovative departure where the meeting between violet and chrysanthemum is extremely ornate and almost heady.

The overwhelming consensus is that De Profundis requires the wearer to be in a certain frame of mind to appreciate its elegiac nuances and sublimity. It is not a fragrance for every occasion, but for the right moment, it is transporting.

Who Should Buy This

De Profundis belongs in the collection of serious fragrance enthusiasts who value artistry and emotional depth over performance metrics. Lovers of unusual florals, green compositions, and the Serge Lutens aesthetic will find it deeply rewarding. It also appeals to those who appreciate the literary and cultural resonances woven into a fragrance.

The limited edition format means availability is scarce, and those who discover and connect with it should act on the opportunity. This is not a casual purchase but a considered acquisition for those who understand what it offers.

The Bottom Line

De Profundis Limited Edition is a masterwork of atmospheric perfumery that transforms the chrysanthemum's funereal associations into something transcendently beautiful. Its whisper-quiet projection and contemplative nature will not suit every taste, but for those attuned to its wavelength, it delivers an emotional depth that few fragrances can match. It is, as one reviewer wrote, achingly ephemeral and rather abstract, but for the precious hours it lasts, almost transporting.