Le Participe Passé Serge Lutens 2018 unisex 124

The Verdict

Le Participe Passe, whose name translates to "the past participle" in French, is one of Serge Lutens' most accomplished releases of the past decade. Launched in 2018 as part of the Collection Noire, this oriental fragrance manages to feel both like a love letter to the house's greatest hits and a genuinely new composition. Where many recent Lutens releases have been criticized for feeling diluted or uninspired, Le Participe Passe has been praised as having the feel of an old-style Lutens scent, rich, complex, and unapologetically bold.

The name itself is a grammatical term that refers to a verb form describing completed action, and that literary quality permeates the fragrance. This is a scent about memory, about the residue of experience, about how sweetness and bitterness coexist in everything we look back on. It is also, more prosaically, a beautifully executed oriental that smells magnificent.

What It Smells Like

The opening presents green, herbal artemisia alongside bright bergamot, creating an initial impression that is more aromatic than you might expect from an oriental. The artemisia has a medicinal, slightly bitter quality that sets up an interesting tension with what follows.

As the heart develops, fruity notes and pepper emerge to add warmth and spice. But the dominant impression is of caramelized sugar, dense and complex. Reviewers have described layers of brown sugar, jaggery, and molasses creating a stew of caramelized sweetness that is lush without being cloying. An unlisted black coffee accord has been detected by multiple reviewers, adding a roasted bitterness that keeps the sweetness grounded. Cumin contributes an earthy, slightly savory element.

The base brings Egyptian balsam and resins together with leather and patchouli, creating a smoky, incense-like foundation. One Basenotes reviewer described green artemisia, cumin, pine needles, and sap swirling in burnt caramel and fresh coffee grains. Another characterized the entire experience as encompassing all five tastes: sweet, sour, bitter, salty, and umami. The effect is of a fragrance that is constantly revealing new facets while maintaining a coherent, satisfying whole.

When to Wear It

Le Participe Passe belongs to the cold months. Its rich, resinous warmth makes it a natural companion for autumn and winter, where it can be appreciated without the heat amplifying its sweeter elements to excess. Evening wear is its most natural context, particularly for formal dinners, cultural events, and intimate gatherings where its complexity can be explored and appreciated.

Some wearers have found it works during transitional seasons like early spring, where the lighter bergamot and artemisia elements can provide counterbalance to the heavy base. However, summer wear is not recommended; the density of the composition needs cool air to breathe.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is impressive and ranks among Serge Lutens' stronger recent offerings. Longevity ranges from 8 to 13 hours depending on skin chemistry, with some reviewers describing it as nuclear in its projection and staying power. The sillage is strong, particularly in the first several hours, creating an enveloping cloud of caramelized resin that can fill a room.

Other wearers report a more moderate experience, with soft sillage and better-behaved projection. The variation likely depends on skin chemistry, application amount, and possibly batch differences. What most agree on is that longevity is consistently strong, even when projection is more restrained.

The Community Says

The fragrance community has responded to Le Participe Passe with unusual warmth for a modern Serge Lutens release. One Fragrantica reviewer declared it possibly the most quality house I have tried, with everything rich and real and interesting, saying this one speaks directly to my DNA. A Basenotes reviewer called it a magnificently elliptical creation that pulls the greatest hits from decades of Lutens' woody, spicy amber perfumes and remixes them so successfully that the compilation feels like a completely new album.

The most common criticism is that the fragrance shows limited development from opening to drydown, with the sugar note remaining dominant throughout. However, several reviewers counter that the apparent simplicity reveals considerable complexity on close inspection, with different facets emerging at different stages even if the overall character remains consistent.

Who Should Buy This

Le Participe Passe is essential sampling for Serge Lutens fans, particularly those who have been disappointed by recent releases from the house. If you love Chergui, Ambre Sultan, or any of the house's great spicy-amber compositions, this will feel like a return to form. It also appeals to anyone who enjoys oriental fragrances built on caramelized sugar, dark resins, and smoky leather.

This is not the right fragrance for anyone who finds oriental compositions cloying or who prefers transparency and freshness in their scents. The price point of the Collection Noire also demands commitment, making sampling particularly important before a full bottle purchase.

The Bottom Line

Le Participe Passe is Serge Lutens at the top of his game, a fragrance that respects the house's magnificent legacy while adding something genuinely new to the conversation. Its blend of caramelized sweetness, smoky resin, and bitter herbal elements creates a composition that is simultaneously comforting and intellectually engaging. For lovers of rich oriental perfumery, this is one of the most rewarding releases of recent years.