Ambre Cannelle

The Verdict

Creed Ambre Cannelle stands as one of the house's most historically significant and divisive creations. Crafted by James Henry Creed in 1949, this warm spicy amber composition is rumored to have been a favorite of Eva Peron, the iconic first lady of Argentina. The amber used in the formula reportedly derives from fir tree resin sourced in Patagonia, adding a layer of provenance that few fragrances can match.

The fragrance community is sharply split on Ambre Cannelle. Champions describe it as heaven on earth, praising its luxurious complexity and the quality of its vintage ingredients. Detractors, including respected critic Luca Turin, have been less kind, with Turin characterizing it as strikingly devoid of either amber or cinnamon and calling it a cheap, skimpy oriental. The truth, as usual with polarizing fragrances, likely falls between these extremes.

Now discontinued, Ambre Cannelle has become a collector's item, commanding premium prices on the secondary market and generating nostalgic discussion among those who experienced it during its long production run.

What It Smells Like

The opening of Ambre Cannelle can be challenging. Red berries and bergamot provide initial brightness, but the first 5-15 minutes are described by many reviewers as harsh and soapy, with the spice elements asserting themselves aggressively before settling. This initial intensity can be off-putting for first-time wearers.

The heart introduces coriander and tincture of rose, creating a warm, spicy-floral accord that distinguishes Ambre Cannelle from straightforward amber fragrances. The rose here is not a pretty garden rose but a deeper, more complex rendering that interacts with the surrounding spices. The coriander adds a green, slightly citrus-like facet that provides lift.

Three or more hours into its development, the fragrance settles onto what one Basenotes reviewer describes as a luxurious amber and indole soaked cushion. The base of amber, vanilla, and spicy notes creates a warm, enveloping foundation that is simultaneously comforting and unsettling, familiar and exotic. There is an animalic quality that adds depth and sensuality.

When to Wear It

Ambre Cannelle is strictly a cold-weather, evening fragrance. Its heavy amber-spice structure would be overwhelming in warm weather, and its old-fashioned character calls for settings where richness and formality are appreciated. Think winter opera performances, formal dinners, and holiday gatherings.

The fragrance has been compared to a predecessor of Opium by YSL, particularly for male wearers. Its heavily spiced amber character makes it ideal for those who appreciate vintage oriental compositions and are comfortable wearing something that reads as decidedly mature.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is one area where Ambre Cannelle earns near-universal praise. This is not a watered-down modern reformulation but a full-bodied composition with excellent longevity, easily lasting 8-10 hours on most skin types. The sillage is moderate by default but can become substantial with liberal application.

Reviewers caution against over-applying, as the dense amber-spice base can quickly become overwhelming in enclosed spaces. Two to three sprays are sufficient for the fragrance to make its presence known without dominating a room.

The Community Says

Basenotes features the most extensive discussions of Ambre Cannelle, with a dedicated review thread that captures the full spectrum of opinions. Enthusiasts describe it as comforting and disquieting, familiar and uncanny, old-fashioned and modern, praising its ability to hold contradictions within a single composition. They note the quality of ingredients and the depth of the amber base as hallmarks of vintage Creed craftsmanship.

The Black Narcissus blog draws an intriguing comparison to Opium, suggesting that Ambre Cannelle served as a masculine precursor to the famous feminine oriental. The review notes its sexed, ambergris-musk base combined with a cinnamon-amber-flecked accord that conveys tightened, bodily mystique.

A notable controversy surrounds the ingredients: the Creed UK website describes the fragrance as containing ambergris, while the Creed Boutique describes it as an amber scent, leading to community debate about whether the prestigious animalic material was actually used.

Who Should Buy This

Ambre Cannelle is for vintage fragrance collectors, Creed devotees, and those who appreciate the animalic, complex character of mid-twentieth-century perfumery. If you find modern fragrances too clean, too safe, or too similar to one another, this represents a different era of fragrance making with different values and ambitions.

Avoid Ambre Cannelle if you prefer contemporary, fresh, or minimalist compositions. Its old-fashioned character is part of its charm for admirers, but it can read as stuffy and overwhelming to those accustomed to modern aesthetics. Given its discontinued status and high secondary market prices, sampling before purchasing is strongly advised.

The Bottom Line

Creed Ambre Cannelle is a vintage amber masterpiece for some and a dated relic for others. Its Eva Peron provenance, complex spice-rose-amber heart, and exceptional longevity make it historically significant and deeply enjoyable for those attuned to its frequencies. As one of Creed's discontinued treasures, it represents a style of perfumery that has largely disappeared from the modern marketplace.