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JoAnne Bassett composed this oriental vanilla unisex fragrance for Kenzo in 2009, following the previous year's 7:15 AM in Bali in the house's travel-inspired series. The scent evokes a Madagascan sunset, blending exotic florals with rich vanilla. Available from April 2009. Lotus opens with delicate, aquatic freshness. Virginia cedar and freesia form the heart. Vanilla anchors the base with warm, gourmand depth.
Kenzo 5:40 PM in Madagascar is a unique unisex vanilla fragrance that pairs aquatic lotus with warm vanilla for a result that is comforting yet distinctly non-gourmand.
Kenzo 5:40 PM in Madagascar is the vanilla fragrance for people who think they do not like vanilla fragrances. Part of Kenzo's travel-inspired series from 2009, this JoAnne Bassett creation pairs aquatic lotus with warm vanilla in a combination that results in something genuinely surprising. It is neither the heavy, syrupy gourmand vanilla nor the generic warm-sweet vanilla of countless department store offerings.
The community recognizes it as a truly unique entry in the vanilla category, with particular praise for its ability to be warm without being sweet and comforting without being cloying. Its discontinuation is a recurring source of frustration for fans who discovered it too late.
The opening is where expectations get upended. Lotus arrives with a watery, slightly aquatic freshness that immediately signals this is not a typical vanilla fragrance. Some find this lotus note beautifully delicate, while others detect a synthetic quality that takes time to appreciate. The aquatic character provides a cool counterpoint to the warmth that follows.
The heart brings Virginia cedar and freesia together in a woody-floral bridge that connects the watery opening to the warm base. The cedar is gentle and supportive rather than assertive. The vanilla base note, when it fully emerges, is soft, warm, and decidedly unsweetened. It has the warmth of vanilla bean without the sugary associations of vanilla extract. The overall effect is like standing in gentle late-afternoon sunlight: warm but not hot, comforting but not heavy.
Madagascar works across three seasons comfortably. The vanilla warmth gives it autumn and winter credentials, while the watery lotus top keeps it light enough for spring. Only peak summer might be excessive, though its low projection means even warm-weather wear is feasible for the dedicated fan.
This is an intimate fragrance best suited to relaxed, personal settings. Date nights, quiet evenings, and casual daily wear are its natural habitat. It creates a gentle scent bubble around the wearer that rewards closeness rather than filling a room.
For such a light, airy fragrance, the longevity is genuinely impressive. Reviewers report that it wears well through a full day, with the vanilla base persisting as a gentle skin scent for many hours. The lotus-cedar opening fades within the first hour, giving way to the more persistent vanilla that becomes the dominant note for the remainder of the wear.
Projection, however, is minimal throughout. This is a fragrance that stays close to the skin from start to finish. Some describe it as wearing like air, which is either a compliment or a criticism depending on what you seek from a fragrance.
Fragrantica and Basenotes reviewers consistently praise 5:40 PM in Madagascar for being unlike any other vanilla on the market. The phrase most commonly used is that it smells very different from other vanilla perfumes because it is not at all sweet. MakeupAlley reviews highlight the unisex quality, noting it works equally well on men and women despite Kenzo's marketing.
The main division is around the lotus note: some call it beautifully aquatic and find it the key to the fragrance's uniqueness, while others describe it as overly synthetic and an acquired taste. Those who push through any initial lotus reservations typically become converts.
This fragrance is perfect for the adventurous vanilla lover who has grown tired of sweet, gourmand interpretations. If you want vanilla that smells like a natural ingredient rather than dessert, Madagascar delivers a genuinely different experience. Its unisex character makes it appropriate for anyone regardless of gender, and the intimate projection suits those who view fragrance as a personal pleasure rather than a social statement.
It is not the right choice for someone seeking a classic warm vanilla comfort scent, nor for anyone who finds aquatic or lotus notes unpleasant. The discontinued status means you will need to hunt on secondary markets.
Kenzo 5:40 PM in Madagascar stands as one of the more creative entries in the vanilla fragrance category. By pairing vanilla with aquatic lotus rather than the usual sweet or gourmand companions, JoAnne Bassett created something that evokes a specific time and place rather than a generic mood. It is comforting without being predictable, warm without being sweet, and personal without being invisible. For the right wearer, it is quietly unforgettable.
Consensus Rating
7/10
Community Sentiment
positiveSources Analyzed
5 community posts (5 forum)
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This review is AI-generated based on analysis of 5 community discussions. Individual experiences may vary.